Natural Habitat & Origin
Neocaridina davidi originate from freshwater streams and ponds in Taiwan. The wild form is a translucent brown-green; the red coloration was selectively bred in captivity. Today, Neocaridina shrimp come in dozens of color varieties including red, orange, yellow, green, blue, black, and white.
Color Grades
- Regular Cherry: Mostly translucent with red patches. Cheapest grade.
- Sakura: More red coverage with some translucent areas.
- Fire Red: Solid red with minimal translucency.
- Painted Fire Red: Deep, opaque crimson. Highest grade and most expensive.
Higher-grade shrimp produce higher-grade offspring, but some color variation is normal in every colony.
Tank Setup
- Tank size: 5 gallons minimum for a colony of 10–20 shrimp. 10 gallons is ideal.
- Filter: Sponge filter is essential — it provides gentle flow and a surface for biofilm, which shrimp graze on constantly. Never use an unprotected HOB intake.
- Plants: Heavily planted tanks are ideal. Java moss, moss balls, subwassertang, and floating plants provide grazing surfaces and hiding spots for baby shrimp.
- Substrate: Inert gravel or sand works fine for Neocaridina. Active substrates like Fluval Stratum lower pH and are better suited for Caridina species.
- No heater needed in most homes — they thrive at room temperature
Water Parameters
- Temperature: 65–80°F (18–27°C) — very flexible
- pH: 6.5–8.0
- Ammonia/Nitrite: 0 ppm (shrimp are very sensitive to these)
- Nitrate: below 20 ppm
- GH: 6–8 dGH
- KH: 2–5 dKH
- TDS: 150–250 ppm
The most important thing for cherry shrimp is stable parameters. They handle a wide range but are very sensitive to sudden swings. Always drip-acclimate new shrimp over 1–2 hours.
Diet & Feeding
Cherry shrimp are primarily biofilm and algae grazers. In a mature, planted tank, they often need very little supplemental feeding:
- Staple: Biofilm and algae in the tank (they constantly graze)
- Supplements: Shrimp pellets (Shrimp King, Hikari Shrimp Cuisine) — 1–2 times per week
- Vegetables: Blanched spinach, zucchini, or carrots — a great occasional treat
- Mineral supplements: Cuttlebone or mineral blocks for calcium (essential for molting)
Overfeeding is the number one killer of shrimp colonies. Feed sparingly and remove uneaten food within a few hours.
Breeding
Cherry shrimp breed readily with no special intervention needed. Females carry 20–30 eggs under their swimmerets for about 30 days. Baby shrimp are tiny (2mm) but fully formed and independent from birth.
To maximize survival rate: provide dense moss or plants for baby shrimp to hide in, use a sponge filter (not a HOB with exposed intake), and keep water parameters stable.
A colony of 10 shrimp can grow to 100+ within 4–6 months in favorable conditions.
Tank Mates
Keep only with small, peaceful fish. Many fish will eat shrimp — especially baby shrimp:
- Safe: Otocinclus, small rasboras, ember tetras, nerite snails
- Risky: Neon tetras, guppies, endlers (may eat babies but ignore adults)
- Avoid: Anything with a mouth big enough to eat them — bettas, gouramis, angelfish, cichlids
- Best: Shrimp-only tanks for maximum breeding success
Frequently Asked Questions
How many cherry shrimp should I start with?
Start with 10–20 shrimp. This gives enough genetic diversity for a healthy breeding colony. They are social animals and do best in groups.
Why are my shrimp dying after a water change?
Most likely a parameter swing. Always match temperature and use dechlorinated water. Consider smaller, more frequent water changes (10% every few days) rather than large weekly changes.