Overview & Origin
Anubias species originate from tropical West and Central Africa, where they grow along riverbanks, streams, and marshes — often partially submerged with their rhizomes attached to rocks and fallen logs. The genus was named after the Egyptian god Anubis, associated with the afterlife, though the connection to the name isn't entirely clear.
In the aquarium hobby, Anubias has become synonymous with "beginner-proof plant." Its incredibly slow growth, tolerance of low light, and resistance to being eaten by herbivorous fish make it a universal recommendation for new aquarists and a staple in experienced setups alike.
How to Plant Anubias
Like Java Fern, Anubias is an epiphyte — the rhizome must never be buried in substrate. Burying the rhizome is the single most common mistake beginners make with this plant, and it leads to rot and death.
Attachment methods:
- Super glue gel: The fastest and most popular method. Apply cyanoacrylate super glue gel to driftwood or stone, press the rhizome firmly for 30 seconds. The glue is aquarium-safe once cured.
- Thread or zip ties: Wrap cotton thread or fishing line around the rhizome and hardscape. Remove once roots have gripped (4–8 weeks).
- Wedge in crevices: Tuck into gaps in rocks or driftwood. The roots will naturally anchor over time.
- Decorative pots: Plant in mesh pots or clay planters with the rhizome above the media level.
Anubias roots will eventually grip tightly to any textured surface, creating a natural, established look that's difficult to achieve with other plants.
Lighting Requirements
Anubias prefers low to moderate light — 15–30 PAR at the leaf surface is ideal. This plant actively dislikes intense lighting, which encourages algae growth on its slow-growing leaves faster than the plant can produce new tissue to replace it.
In high-tech, brightly lit tanks, position Anubias in shaded areas — under driftwood overhangs, behind taller plants, or in corners with reduced light intensity. Some aquarists even keep Anubias in completely shaded zones where no other plants would survive.
Water Parameters
- Temperature: 72–82°F (22–28°C)
- pH: 6.0–7.5
- KH: 3–8 dKH
- GH: 3–8 dGH
Anubias is tolerant of a wide range of water conditions. It can survive in hard water, soft water, slightly acidic or slightly alkaline environments. This adaptability is one of the main reasons it's so universally recommended.
CO2 & Fertilization
CO2 injection is not necessary and provides only a modest increase in growth rate due to the plant's naturally slow metabolism. A basic liquid fertilizer dosed once per week is sufficient for healthy growth. Anubias absorbs nutrients through its leaves and rhizome, so root tabs are not necessary.
Popular Anubias Varieties
- Anubias barteri var. nana: The classic variety. Small, oval leaves about 1–2 inches long. Grows to about 4–6 inches tall. The most common Anubias in the hobby.
- Anubias nana 'Petite': A miniature version with tiny leaves under 1 inch. Perfect for nano tanks and detailed aquascapes. Extremely slow growing.
- Anubias barteri: The larger parent species with leaves up to 4–6 inches long. Makes a more dramatic statement but takes up more space.
- Anubias coffeefolia: Distinctive deeply ridged leaves that emerge with a reddish-brown color before maturing to dark green. Named for its resemblance to coffee plant leaves.
- Anubias hastifolia: Large, arrow-shaped leaves. One of the biggest Anubias species, suitable for large tanks.
- Anubias 'Snow White': A rare variety with white/cream variegation on the leaves. Highly prized by collectors but extremely slow growing and more delicate.
Propagation
Anubias propagates exclusively through rhizome division. As the plant matures, its rhizome grows longer and branches. To propagate:
- Identify a section of rhizome with at least 3–4 healthy leaves and some roots.
- Use a sharp, clean blade or scissors to cut through the rhizome.
- Attach the new piece to hardscape using your preferred method.
The cut section will heal over and continue growing normally. Don't divide a plant into sections that are too small — each piece needs enough energy reserves in the rhizome to survive independently.
Common Problems & Solutions
- Algae on leaves: The #1 issue with Anubias. Its slow growth makes it a prime target for green spot algae, black beard algae (BBA), and diatoms. Keep lighting low, ensure good water circulation, add algae-eating snails (nerites are ideal), and reduce photoperiod to 6–7 hours.
- Yellowing leaves: Typically caused by nutrient deficiency (nitrogen or iron) or excessive light. Dose liquid fertilizer and check light levels.
- Rhizome rot: Caused by burying the rhizome in substrate or poor water circulation around the plant. Remove any rotting sections with a clean cut and ensure the rhizome is fully exposed.
- Slow growth: This is normal. Anubias produces roughly one new leaf every 2–3 weeks under ideal conditions. Patience is required with this plant.
- Holes in leaves: May indicate potassium deficiency. Supplement with a potassium-specific fertilizer.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can Anubias grow in low light?
Yes — Anubias is one of the best low-light aquarium plants available. It actually prefers low light and is more likely to develop algae problems under intense lighting.
Can Anubias grow out of water?
Yes. Anubias is amphibious and can grow emersed in humid environments like paludariums and ripariums. It can even flower when grown above water, producing a small white spadix similar to a peace lily.
How long does Anubias live?
With proper care, Anubias can live for many years — potentially decades. Individual leaves can last 2–3 years before naturally deteriorating. It's one of the longest-lived aquarium plants.
Will fish eat Anubias?
Most fish won't eat Anubias due to its thick, tough leaves. This makes it suitable for tanks with goldfish, cichlids, and other species that typically destroy live plants.